We love a hike. Not necessarily the arduous, near-death kind ones. We’re talking about a glorified up-hill walk, with a rewarding view (and maybe a drink) at the end. And if caves, bunkers and relics are thrown into the mix, we’re sold.
This is what we discovered when visiting Cagliari, the beautiful capital of an equally beautiful island of the Mediterranean: Sardinia. Cagliari is home to a limestone promontory that elevates itself on a breath-taking gulf of turquoise waters, sandy beaches and salt lakes. This promontory is anything but ordinary. Its distinctive, saddle-like shape is what gives it the name Sella del Diavolo, which literally translates to “Devil’s Saddle”.
Let us tell you more about the best, and free, activity you can enjoy during your stay in Cagliari.
1. The Legend
According to legends, during a heavenly battle, God sent the Archangel Michael to drive away Lucifer and his rebellious angels from the gulf of Cagliari. Consequently, Lucifer was unseated from his horse, his saddle plunged into the sea and turned into stone, forming the saddle-shaped promontory that has become a symbol of Cagliari till today.
2. The History
Archaeological discoveries from the Punic and Roman periods—such as water cisterns and the Temple of Astarte—have been uncovered here in recent years. I was amazed at the sight of locals meticulously working at one of these sites, carefully unmasking years of history.
Watchtowers are also a constant feature of the Sardinian coastline and this area is not an exception. The tower of Poetto at the summit proudly oversees the gulf below, including the 10km sandy beach that bears the same name.
In more recent history, the Italian army fortified this area with bunkers and forts from WW2, the remnant of which can still be explored on your hike, adding a fun element to the whole experience.
3. The Hike
The best starting point is a short drive to the left of Calamosca beach. There is plenty of off-street parking during the low season, but these spaces can fill up quite quickly in the summer months. If you’re staying in Cagliari city centre, the 5ZE line runs directly from Piazza Matteotti to Calamosca. Dowload the CTM Bus Finder app to purchase tickets and plan your route. Alternatively, if you’re feeling particularly energetic, the 6km walk along the seafront from Cagliari City Centre takes just over an hour.
From the starting point, the route is quite straightforward and easy to follow.

The climb isn’t too strenuous, but comfortable closed-toe shoes are highly recommended. The trail is 3.4km in length and it takes an average of 30 to 45 minutes to reach the top.
Top tip: look out for painted rocks on the side of the paths. These indicate you’re going the right way!
4. The Summit
The view from the summit is absolutely spectacular. Sardinia is blessed with a lot of sunshine, so chances are you’ll have a beautiful clear sky on the day of your hike. Take a moment to cast your eyes from the city of Cagliari to the famous salt lakes —home to hundreds of flamingos, and the long stretch of Poetto Beach. To your right, the Tower of Poetto proudly rests below the tip of the saddle like the figurehead of a ship, guarding the waters below.
As well as the breath-taking 360-degree view of the coastline, the summit also offers an exciting opportunity to explore the remains of what used to be military bunkers and watchtowers. If you have young ones with you, or ones young at heart, you can have a lot of fun sneaking into these old fortresses to re-play some imaginary water front battle…just saying.
5. The Reward
The easiest way down is to retrace your steps backwards. We tried carrying on and around a different route only to get stuck half way through a not overly safe path.
Once you are back at the starting point you have two options: an Italian-style aperitivo at Le Terrazze to the right or at La Pailotte to the left. Both are excellent options, offering a variety of drinks and snacks with a beautiful view of Calamosca beach. Our recommendation would be to head left to La Pailotte, a more secluded and considerably less busy restaurant than Le Terrazze. Treat yourself with a refreshing Aperol Spritz and take it all in.
Sardinia has a way of grasping your heart and never quite letting go of it. If you’re searching for a way to reconnect with yourself, pause and reset, we wholeheartedly recommend this beautiful hike of the Sella del Diavolo. For more tips and suggestions on planning a holiday to Sardinia, visit our blog onabreak.co.uk





